TransTrem v1, v2, and S-Trem information

How to mount the tremolo arm so that itʼs correctly tightened on the transposing arm/tremolo arm socket:

Just print out this chart (PDF download here) and use it when setting up your TransTrem:

This is the correct assignment of jaws to each string (low E, A, D jaw are identical):

The original USA-made Raymond spring, according to the specifications found on the SteinbergerWorld website. These have the correct length of 44 mm/1.75 inch as originally specified by Ned. Also available: shorter springs (38 mm/1.5 inch) for downtuned trems and R-Trem springs (50 mm/2 inch).

These springs can be ordered here.

I have also created a video on how to replace the spring on a TransTrem, which should help you to avoid unwanted damage on the springs using inappropriate tools (pliers etc.). See the video on replacing a TransTrem spring here (Youtube link).

I think I‘ve already googled and checked every single hardware provider in the world, but these screws aren‘t available anywhere. Usually you can buy the right thread size, but then the head is too big, or you find fitting heads, but the thread is too thin (and not as tight) as the original. Closer inspection of the original screws shows a possible reason for this. I don‘t have any official confirmation for this, but they definitely look like being made in a similar way as the screws I finally had made to my specifications.

We started with screws of the right thread size and length, and grinded the head down to the diameter of the original screws - one by one. For optical reasons, we made them black, like the originals. On the photos below you see the original heads (left) and my screws (right). The screw size is 3,5 x 19 mm (#6 x 3/4"), the head diameter is 5.5 mm (about 0.218"). If you want your T-/S-Trem or FX Bridge to be mounted tightly, but don‘t have the original screws, then these are what you‘ve been looking for :-)

These screws can be ordered here.

Not much to explain here. It‘s possible that the threads on the original spring tension adjuster get stripped, and without proper spring tension adjustment the whole tremolo cannot be used any more. If this is the case, you‘ll simply need a new one.

This spring tension adjuster can be ordered here.

After several years of searching for these E-clips (and buying many, many wrong ones) I finally found the original ones. The only ones which fit perfectly on your TTv2 jaw, holding the adjustment screw in place.

These E-clips can be ordered here.

This is a new part which might preserve or restore the function of your TransTrem v1. There are absolutely no replacement parts available for the TTv1. In case your transposing arm is damaged or lost, youʼre stuck with a non-working TTv1. This adapter allows you to use the TransTrem v2 transposing arm (readily available from some sources) on your TransTrem v1.

This adapter can be ordered here.

Iʼve got some S-Trems with a broken locking lever. The original lever is just pressed onto the pin and may come loose over time. Once this happens itʼs impossible to get the trem reliably locked. So I made a drawing for an improved version and had it manufactured. It has defined flattened areas for the grub screws to hold the lever and locking latch in position, so slipping of either should no longer happen. My S-Trems are fixed and back to work. If youʼve got an S-Trem with the same problem, thereʼs a fix available now.

This locking lever can be ordered here.

Steinberger tremolos require roller saddles to move freely, so that transposing and return-to-zero work flawlessly. "Burnishing" roller saddles is the recommended procedure to rotate the rollers at very high speed, in order to remove dirt and residues. This PDF describes how you can build a tool and perform the burnishing yourself.

Burnishing roller saddles (and making a tool for that)

TransTrem v2 setup (PDF)

TransTrem/S-Trem routing dimensions (taken on a MusicYo GM)